This was my first wave ever at Waimea Bay (pictured above). People often ask me how I learned to surf waves like Waimea and are surprised when they learn that I grew up surfing in New Jersey. I always knew deep inside that I had potential to be a big wave rider and I didn’t want to see that dream of mine just fizzle out so that's why I came to Hawaii in 2012, to build a better life around the sport I love.
By doing right, adapting to the Hawaiian culture, studying the ocean, investing in the proper equipment, & choosing the right moments to surf was what helped me to gradually get to where I am in my surfing today. Now I have been riding waves like Waimea for 6 years. It all begins simply with hard work, determination, faith, and the ocean’s raw natural energy. A big wave ride is the product of a lifetime of training.
Male or female, any person who successfully rides a big wave has spent many years of his or her life working in the ocean to achieve their ultimate goal. As a big wave surfer, I push every day to take small steps towards executing the ride of my life. I surf to have fun, experience joy and get satisfaction from the feeling of the ride. Surfing allows me to escape from the world as I know it on land and connect with the spiritual aspect of my beliefs. Being in the ocean allows me to better my relationship with God and know Him in a way beyond the confines of a strict religious perspective.
I have always been a #womanofthewater. Nowadays, I have become a mom to a beautiful 6-month-old little boy who I am excited to share this gift with here on Oahu.
Written by Brittany Gomulka